A dashing suit has been knocking around the annals of fashion since Marlene Dietrich and the YSL blazer ‘n slacks combo. Power dressing was big and brash in the 80’s; shoulder pads and hairspray were key. Balmain reinstated the iconic shoulder, albeit softer, and Commes des Garcons made their imprint on the fashion world by blurring the lines between masculine and feminine dressing. So the female suit has a long lineage of fashion credentials. And androgynous looks stomped all over the catwalks for Autumn/ Winter this year. But what is one to do with a wardrobe full of frill and lace and sequin? All that feathery fun of the summer just gone? And is it even possible to work the androgynous look whilst still being true to your girly, glamorous self?
The New Androgyny is full of clean lines and ferocious energy, the Balmain tux being a case in point. But to embrace the suit with a hint of flirty fun, break up the structured separates with a wafty blouse. Simone Rocha, the Irish designer steaming ahead at London Fashion Week, has done a diffusion line with Topshop containing the perfect sheer panelled shirt. It retains all the principles of the androgynous look whilst still being pretty. Emma Manley, another Irish designer, also does some great edgy-girly shirts; sheer blouses roughed up with studded detailing. You could also go for something loud-and-proud girly – a floral print shirt. Awear have a great variety, and at wallet-friendly prices, you can afford to invest a bit more into your suit. Look to the Kooples for some excellent, chic separates.
The other concession to feminine dressing is to play with the core components of the suit – the blazer and trousers. Why not go all out Alexander Wang and get some glitter pants? And does the blazer really have to be straightforward black? Topshop have a great metallic piece and Modekungen have an awesome animal print jacket for all those hard-core animistas.
And now to the accessories – the real key to injecting a bit of fizz. Stick on your three basics – the slacks, the shirt, the suit jacket – and then layer on a jewelled collar (see Joanne Hynes for some magnificent pieces), a flirty bow-tie (ala Janelle Monae) or an OTT fur stole (the turquoise Asos number is a true beaut). Or keep the whole canvas clean and blank and then whack on a pair of ridiculous heels! The hot pink wedges and the glitter shoe-boots from Jeffrey Cambell, or the Steve Madden imitation Miu Mius are just the right amount of daring at the end of your suit to balance the high-fashion androgyny with a good ‘ol dash of show-stopping drama.
